New Zealand has one of the fastest-growing Indian populations per capita in the world, and Auckland is where that shows up on the plate. The best Indian food in the country sits in Sandringham, Mount Roskill and Papatoetoe — not in the central city.

If you have only eaten Indian food on Auckland's Ponsonby Road, you have been eating the tourist version. The kitchens that locals queue for are in the suburbs, often in unglamorous strip malls, and they cook for a community that would notice immediately if the food were wrong.

Sandringham: the real centre

Sandringham Road is Auckland's Indian high street. Within a few hundred metres you will find South Indian tiffin houses turning out dosa and idli from breakfast, Gujarati snack counters selling fafda and jalebi on Sunday mornings, and North Indian kitchens running the tandoor from noon. Come hungry and eat across three places rather than committing to one.

What to order, by cuisine

South Indian: a paper masala dosa and filter coffee is the standard test. If the dosa arrives limp or the coffee comes from a jar, keep walking.

Gujarati: look for an unlimited thali at lunch. It should include at least two shaak, dal, kadhi, rotli, rice and a farsan, and the dal should be faintly sweet.

Punjabi: order dal makhani and judge it on texture. Properly made, it has been on low heat for hours and tastes of smoke and butter rather than tomato.

Beyond Auckland

Wellington has a smaller but serious scene concentrated around Cuba Street and Newtown, with a couple of excellent Kerala kitchens. Christchurch has rebuilt its Indian dining around Riccarton, and Hamilton punches above its weight thanks to a large student population from India.

A note on spice levels

Many New Zealand Indian restaurants run two menus in practice: one for the community and one for everyone else. If you want the former, say so plainly and ask what the kitchen eats. Most owners are delighted to be asked.

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